Fender telecaster after shipping question.

[pfadder]

Hi, just received a very beautiful starburst telecaster that was shipped via UPS. guitar looks perfect, it's an 2006 model. seller shipped with the strings approx 2 turns loose. guitar came in same condition as shipped but now the lower E and A strings are buzzing.
wondering if thats normal after shipping. possible from the 1500 mile ride across the USA could make some changes in it.
im assuming it needs set up. but then im wondering how long I should leave it sitting before I do anything on it? if this is a weird question then just tell me. LOL

[DanTheBluesMan]

it's quite possible that it's just in need of a truss rod tweak, most of my guitars either need it or I've done it. That time of year.

[OldStrummer]

Hi, just received a very beautiful starburst telecaster that was shipped via UPS. guitar looks perfect, it's an 2006 model. seller shipped with the strings approx 2 turns loose. guitar came in same condition as shipped but now the lower E and A strings are buzzing.
wondering if thats normal after shipping. possible from the 1500 mile ride across the USA could make some changes in it.
im assuming it needs set up. but then im wondering how long I should leave it sitting before I do anything on it? if this is a weird question then just tell me. LOL

How long did you let it sit before you opened the box?

I usually give a guitar at least 24 hours to acclimate before exposing it to the local elements. The shop I took my acoustic to told me they wouldn't even look at it until it had set three days in its case.

Of course, when I bought my latest Martin, the seller told me that even peeking into the case before letting it sit overnight would spoil the whole process. I expect electric guitars aren't quite as sensitive.

[pfadder]

hi, it was approx 6 hours but I thought that’s only necessary if there’s a temperature change. This was in room temperature building all weekend and indoors warm when I opened the box.

How long did you let it sit before you opened the box?

I usually give a guitar at least 24 hours to acclimate before exposing it to the local elements. The shop I took my acoustic to told me they wouldn't even look at it until it had set three days in its case.

Of course, when I bought my latest Martin, the seller told me that even peeking into the case before letting it sit overnight would spoil the whole process. I expect electric guitars aren't quite as sensitive.

[OldStrummer]

Add in the 1,500 miles cross-country. On a truck. With possibly no temperature or humidity control...

[pfadder]

no it was indoors, I told him I’ll pick it up at the terminal, but it’s back in the case now. I will ignore it for a few days. I will have it professionally set up with new strings.

Add in the 1,500 miles cross-country. On a truck. With possibly no temperature or humidity control...

[OldStrummer]

no it was indoors, I told him I’ll pick it up at the terminal, but it’s back in the case now. I will ignore it for a few days. I will have it professionally set up with new strings.

I suspect that will set it right, and then you'll have a terrific guitar to play and admire.

Of course, without pictures, this thread is useless.

[pfadder]

I will most definitely post pictures! As soon as It’s settled in. It’s beautiful!

I suspect that will set it right, and then you'll have a terrific guitar to play and admire.

Of course, without pictures, this thread is useless.

[pfadder]

Well guys.. I hope this is not too terrible.
can you see how the high E string is almost off the fretboard?
had the tele at a music shop and he said the Truss Rod is loosened all the way and it needs to go a little looser to adjust it. Also the neck is angled to the left causing the string to almost miss the fret board. What do you guys think it would take to fix it?
https://youtube.com/shorts/y7LQAYPZqDg?feature=share

[DanTheBluesMan]

there are a couple of things. Give the neck a 'chiropractic' adjustment and/or move the saddles.

with the guitar on a firm surface in a playing position (not flat on its back) slightly loosen the neck mount screws. Push down on the body and pull up on the neck, you might hear a creak, that's ok. Then, while pulling up on the neck, tighten the mount screws.

If that's not enough, the saddles can be manipulated. Detune the low E and just barely move the saddle towards the bass side of the body. This is a game of thousandths of an inch (or fractions of a millimeter). It doesn't have to be a lot. Retune the low E. Repeat with each of the other saddles until you get to the high E.

sometimes it is just the high E saddle that's a little out of alignment. Since it's the string that most likely to break, sometimes people replace the string and never check the saddle to make sure it is snug up against the B saddle and leave a gap.

Your string should be nicely over the fretboard by now.

[pfadder]

well that almost seems easy, but I wish you could do it for me, lol!
when you talk about neck screws, are they these on the stainless plate in the back? also should the strings be tightened when I loosen them?

there are a couple of things. Give the neck a 'chiropractic' adjustment and/or move the saddles.

with the guitar on a firm surface in a playing position (not flat on its back) slightly loosen the neck mount screws. Push down on the body and pull up on the neck, you might hear a creak, that's ok. Then, while pulling up on the neck, tighten the mount screws.

If that's not enough, the saddles can be manipulated. Detune the low E and just barely move the saddle towards the bass side of the body. This is a game of thousandths of an inch (or fractions of a millimeter). It doesn't have to be a lot. Retune the low E. Repeat with each of the other saddles until you get to the high E.

sometimes it is just the high E saddle that's a little out of alignment. Since it's the string that most likely to break, sometimes people replace the string and never check the saddle to make sure it is snug up against the B saddle and leave a gap.

Your string should be nicely over the fretboard by now.

[DanTheBluesMan]

well that almost seems easy, but I wish you could do it for me, lol!
when you talk about neck screws, are they these on the stainless plate in the back? also should the strings be tightened when I loosen them?

it is pretty easy. Yes, the 4 screws on the neck plate on the back of the body. I don't worry about the strings for the neck adjustment because the screws are only being backed off a little bit, maybe a turn and a half. You can detune the strings a little if it makes you feel more comfortable.

It's a little tricky, I admit, trying to pull up on the neck while also tightening the screws. What I would do is put the neck of the guitar in the crook of my left arm, use my left hand to grab the body, lift up on the neck with my left arm while tightening the screws with my right hand. Hence why you don't want to make the screws too loose. Tighten the top screw closest to the neck first, then the bottom screw furthest from the neck, then up to the other top screw then the last one on the bottom. You're trying to pivot the heel of the neck toward the floor, giving you a thou or two more room for the string to hang over the neck. Then check the saddles. Sometimes the neck adjust is enough, sometimes you need to fudge with the saddles, too.

[pfadder]

I will give it a try.
what do you think I could do with the truss rod issue? apparently it needs loosened but it's as loose as it goes. neck is very close but action is very low on it so it needs to go out just a tiny bit more.

it is pretty easy. Yes, the 4 screws on the neck plate on the back of the body. I don't worry about the strings for the neck adjustment because the screws are only being backed off a little bit, maybe a turn and a half. You can detune the strings a little if it makes you feel more comfortable.

It's a little tricky, I admit, trying to pull up on the neck while also tightening the screws. What I would do is put the neck of the guitar in the crook of my left arm, use my left hand to grab the body, lift up on the neck with my left arm while tightening the screws with my right hand. Hence why you don't want to make the screws too loose. Tighten the top screw closest to the neck first, then the bottom screw furthest from the neck, then up to the other top screw then the last one on the bottom. You're trying to pivot the heel of the neck toward the floor, giving you a thou or two more room for the string to hang over the neck. Then check the saddles. Sometimes the neck adjust is enough, sometimes you need to fudge with the saddles, too.

[DanTheBluesMan]

I will give it a try.
what do you think I could do with the truss rod issue? apparently it needs loosened but it's as loose as it goes. neck is very close but action is very low on it so it needs to go out just a tiny bit more.

although the truss rod affects action to a degree, it is not how you set the action on a guitar. The truss rod adjusts the amount of relief in the neck. A capo at the 1st fret and pressing down on the fret where the neck meets the body (typically 17th fret) creates a straight line with the string. At the halfway point between those two places (8th fret) a feeler gauge is typically employed to measure from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. Most fenders are happy with .008 to .012", I've met people who say .020 is ok but I find it a bit too much.

Using the saddles screws, I aim for 6/64th on the low E at the 12th fret and 5/64th on the high E. The rest of the strings are radiused according to the fret board. I have radius gauges and use them to check my eyeball estimates.

Tools you will want: capo, feeler gauges (automotive stores have them, you will want to clean them up as they come oiled. I used isoprophyl alcohol), a steel engineering ruler and/or a string action gauge (Stew Mac, etc), hex wrench for the saddle screws. Optional tools like radius gauge, magnifying loupe (my eyes ... er ... eye isn't what it used to be), i use Dan Erlewhine's lighted magnifying loupe. It's been worth every penny to me.

Tune the guitar. Put the capo on the 1st fret. Press down on the neck body joint (17th fret), use feeler gauge to measure fret top to string bottom at the 8th fret. What do you get?

What music store guy are you talking about? The one who sold it? Your own local guy? Are they a luthier? I've gotten some pretty crappy set ups at stores where I've purchased guitars. Now that I know how to do my own, I won't pay anybody 75 dollars or whatever the going rate is these days. That's a lot of sets of strings you can buy

[pfadder]

Yes, I know the truss rod doesn't create the low or high action. but the neck needs to go slightly looser to be shimmed properly. but from my little research I see you can easily remove the neck and loosen the truss rod nut a couple turns. or maybe I shouldn't have added the easily word here.

Music store guy is a local music store that doesn't repair telecasters but he can adjust them. he said it needs to have the truss rod loosened just a tad more then allowed and also noticed the neck was angled. which I already covered on this thread. I am almost ready to try that.

although the truss rod affects action to a degree, it is not how you set the action on a guitar. The truss rod adjusts the amount of relief in the neck. A capo at the 1st fret and pressing down on the fret where the neck meets the body (typically 17th fret) creates a straight line with the string. At the halfway point between those two places (8th fret) a feeler gauge is typically employed to measure from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. Most fenders are happy with .008 to .012", I've met people who say .020 is ok but I find it a bit too much.

Using the saddles screws, I aim for 6/64th on the low E at the 12th fret and 5/64th on the high E. The rest of the strings are radiused according to the fret board. I have radius gauges and use them to check my eyeball estimates.

Tools you will want: capo, feeler gauges (automotive stores have them, you will want to clean them up as they come oiled. I used isoprophyl alcohol), a steel engineering ruler and/or a string action gauge (Stew Mac, etc), hex wrench for the saddle screws. Optional tools like radius gauge, magnifying loupe (my eyes ... er ... eye isn't what it used to be), i use Dan Erlewhine's lighted magnifying loupe. It's been worth every penny to me.

Tune the guitar. Put the capo on the 1st fret. Press down on the neck body joint (17th fret), use feeler gauge to measure fret top to string bottom at the 8th fret. What do you get?

What music store guy are you talking about? The one who sold it? Your own local guy? Are they a luthier? I've gotten some pretty crappy set ups at stores where I've purchased guitars. Now that I know how to do my own, I won't pay anybody 75 dollars or whatever the going rate is these days. That's a lot of sets of strings you can buy

[pfadder]

Ok that didn't make sense. I somehow got some bad info about the truss rod on a telecaster so I still have to find out how I get more relief on the neck? I have to relief it just a tiny bit more to stop the string buzz.

Yes, I know the truss rod doesn't create the low or high action. but the neck needs to go slightly looser to be shimmed properly. but from my little research I see you can easily remove the neck and loosen the truss rod nut a couple turns. or maybe I shouldn't have added the easily word here.

Music store guy is a local music store that doesn't repair telecasters but he can adjust them. he said it needs to have the truss rod loosened just a tad more then allowed and also noticed the neck was angled. which I already covered on this thread. I am almost ready to try that.

[Offshore Angler]

Truss rod will definitely affect buzzing. If the relief is too low for the action you'll get buzzing.

Not sure why it was detuned for shipping but I would suspect that's the issue. Don't do that.

Once detuned the neck relaxed to a flatter condition and now it will need to be readjusted.

[pfadder]

Hi guys, I guess I loosened the neck bolts today, guess what happened…. Neck jumped into place and it was right on center. That part is fixed and the buzz appears to be much better as well but it’s still there when I press the first couple frets on low E and A strings

[DanTheBluesMan]

Hi guys, I guess I loosened the neck bolts today, guess what happened…. Neck jumped into place and it was right on center. That part is fixed and the buzz appears to be much better as well but it’s still there when I press the first couple frets on low E and A strings

good to hear about the neck centering itself.

look at the nut slots on the low E and A. How does the string sit in the slot? Completely below the top of the nut or somewhat sticking above?

[pfadder]

I have a few pictures I took yesterday. but I didn't polish it up yet. it's nice.
here is a google image link, on one picture I see the Low E string seems deeper into the nut.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hpvCYAYVca1V5C446

good to hear about the neck centering itself.

look at the nut slots on the low E and A. How does the string sit in the slot? Completely below the top of the nut or somewhat sticking above?

[DanTheBluesMan]

i couldn't tell from that picture, I would need an extreme closeup of the nut with the strings in order to be able to tell.

Get in on the thing, like this:

[pfadder]

i uploaded two more pictures. Let me know what you think.
thanks… also today I noticed it’s buzzing on most of the frets as well, low E and a
A strings

i couldn't tell from that picture, I would need an extreme closeup of the nut with the strings in order to be able to tell.

Get in on the thing, like this:

[DanTheBluesMan]

i uploaded two more pictures. Let me know what you think.
thanks… also today I noticed it’s buzzing on most of the frets as well, low E and a
A strings

yeah, not the worst I've seen but the strings are pretty deep in the nut. But having said that, there looks to be a fair bit of daylight under the low E above the first fret. Try this. Fret the 3rd fret on the low E and see if you can see any light between the top of the 1st fret and the bottom of the string. If you can push down on the string while fretting it and it moves to touch the first fret then the nut is probably not too low.

have you gotten any string height gauges or steel engineering ruler yet? Feeler gauges? Apart from screwdrivers and allen wrenches (hex wrenches) they are my most used tools.

[pfadder]

I have feeler gages but not that ruler, I will upload a video where im pressing fret 3. let me know what you think.

yeah, not the worst I've seen but the strings are pretty deep in the nut. But having said that, there looks to be a fair bit of daylight under the low E above the first fret. Try this. Fret the 3rd fret on the low E and see if you can see any light between the top of the 1st fret and the bottom of the string. If you can push down on the string while fretting it and it moves to touch the first fret then the nut is probably not too low.

have you gotten any string height gauges or steel engineering ruler yet? Feeler gauges? Apart from screwdrivers and allen wrenches (hex wrenches) they are my most used tools.

[Offshore Angler]

That nut looks good to me.

Three questions:

1) Can you hear the buzz in the amp?

2) What happens when you tap the back of the neck? Any knocking or buzzing?

3) Is the buzz constant or only when you first pick the note?

You don't need to buy gages, you can use a set of strings as gages.

Chuck

[pfadder]

the Buzz isn't in the amp. only on the guitar.
I dont hear any abnormal knocking or buzzing when I tap the neck.
buzz is pretty much constant, almost as if the strings were tuned too loose.

That nut looks good to me.

Three questions:

1) Can you hear the buzz in the amp?

2) What happens when you tap the back of the neck? Any knocking or buzzing?

3) Is the buzz constant or only when you first pick the note?

You don't need to buy gages, you can use a set of strings as gages.

Chuck

[Offshore Angler]

If you can't hear it in the amp then it's no issue, just play the Tele and enjoy it. Sometimes the old Fender string slap gets confused with buzzing.

Chuck

[pfadder]

it has improved a lot the past few weeks or so.. it's an awesome guitar!!!
thanks guys for the help.

If you can't hear it in the amp then it's no issue, just play the Tele and enjoy it. Sometimes the old Fender string slap gets confused with buzzing.

Chuck