Affixing Headstock Logo?

[OldStrummer]

I don't think I asked this before. If I did, I never saw a reply, so this one is for those of you who build or modify your own guitars.

The headstock logo on my 1971 Framus 12-string has worn away. There is still the impression where it goes, and I managed to buy one from the newly(?) revived Framus in Germany. When I had the guitar in for cleanup, I requested the shop to do the logo as part of the work, but they failed to do so. I figure it's a glue job, but I don't know what kind of glue or prep work I would need to do the job myself. Any ideas?

[Cogs]

Is it not a waterslide decal? If it is, you do it just like you would on a model airplane: make sure the surface is clean, use a small bowl or saucer of water that is on the hot side of lukewarm, & place the decal paper in it. When the decal starts to lift slightly off the paper, position it on the surface & slide the paper out from underneath the decal. Once the paper is removed, you can adjust the decal for proper placement, but not by much (I use a toothpick or a manicurist's greenstick). At this point I usually incline the surface slightly & use some tissue or a paper towel to wick out the excess water. DO NOT APPLY PRESSURE TO THE DECAL. This will cause "silvering", a condition in which small air pockets form between the decal & the surface

[OldStrummer]

Is it not a waterslide decal? If it is, you do it just like you would on a model airplane: make sure the surface is clean, use a small bowl or saucer of water that is on the hot side of lukewarm, & place the decal paper in it. When the decal starts to lift slightly off the paper, position it on the surface & slide the paper out from underneath the decal. Once the paper is removed, you can adjust the decal for proper placement, but not by much (I use a toothpick or a manicurist's greenstick). At this point I usually incline the surface slightly & use some tissue or a paper towel to wick out the excess water. DO NOT APPLY PRESSURE TO THE DECAL. This will cause "silvering", a condition in which small air pockets form between the decal & the surface

Thanks! I'll have to check if it's a waterslide decal, but I'm pretty sure it is. What else could it be, now that you mention it?

[Bill Moore]

After dry, you could cover it with Tru-Oil, seems to help the edges blend in.

[Cogs]

I don't know what it might be, I'm not familiar with Framus.
Btw I edited my post & the quote for coherence

[Michael Smith]

After the decal is dry, you could spray on a few coats of finish to protect the decal, but that would involve removing the tuners, which on a 12 string is no small task. You could probably wait until it's time for new strings.

[OldStrummer]

I don't know what it might be, I'm not familiar with Framus.
Btw I edited my post & the quote for coherence

The story (history) of Framus is a long and winding road. In short, started by a postwar German in 1946, it became the largest manufacturer and vendor of musical instruments in Europe. John Lennon, Bill Wyman and Jack Bruce all played Framus instruments. Then, Japanese price dumping in the 1970s forced the company into bankruptcy. Warwick, which was founded in 1982 by the son of Framus's original founder brought back the name, and also owns the Sadowsky brand as well as their own Warwick line.

https://www.warwick.de/en/

https://www.framus-vintage.de/en/About-Framus/History/

[Offshore Angler]

The secret to putting clear over decals is to use very sparse mist coats, at least at for the first few. Waterslide decals will continue to shrink long after the paint has cured and you'll get cracks in the paint ( see Gibson headstocks ) around the decals if the paint is too thick, and you risk bleeding the decal pigments if the paint is too thick. Just a super quick fine mist for the first coat of clear, let it dry thoroughly and then light coats with plenty of drying in between.

Think of it like rain, you want a light mist that sticks to everything, not a downpour runs off into the gutters!

Chuck